The Amalfi Coast (Costiera Amalfitana) from Sorrento to Salerno is one of Europe's most beautiful stretches of coastline, and the scenic corniche road that winds precariously along it, is justly famous as one of the world's most hair-raising and most scenic motoring experiences.

From the East, the Amalfi Drive begins at Salerno, one of the most active ports of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The city's historical and cultural tradition dates back to Roman times, and it was the seat of the oldest university in Europe, the Schola Medica Salernitana. In more modem times it is best remembered for the Allied troops landing on its beaches, during the second world war. Salerno isn't a tourist town, but it's a very sociable and lively place with plenty of street life and an intriguing choice of eating places, and makes a good base to explore Mediterranean culture and the fascinating landscapes of the Amalfi Coast. While in the area, a must-see to the east of Salerno is Paestum, which is one of the most important archaeological sites in the county, containing see some of the best preserved Greek ruins, architecture and monuments.

After leaving Salerno, the Amalfi drive passes through Vietri sul Mare, a lovely seaside town famous for its handmade ceramic tiles and pottery, before reaching the bustling resort of Maiori and the small picturesque town of Minori.

Capital of Campania's southernmost province, SALERNO has much of the scruffy, disorganized charm of Naples: a busy, dirty port city that's well off most travellers' itineraries and so holds a good supply of cheap accommodation - making it a good base for both the Amalfi coast and the ancient site of Paestum further south. During medieval times the town's medical school was the most eminent in Europe. More recently, it was the site of the Allied landing of September 9, 1943 - a landing that reduced much of the centre to rubble. The subsequent rebuilding has restored neither charm nor efficiency to the town centre, which is an odd mixture of wide, rather characterless boulevards and a small medieval core full of intriguingly dark corners and alleys. But the town's siting, strung along the top of its gulf and looking across to the sheer wall of the Amalfi coast, is fine. 

There isn't a great deal to see in Salerno, but it's pleasant to wander through the vibrant streets of the centre, especially the ramshackle old medieval quarter, which starts at the far end of Corso V. Emanuele , lined with designer shops and heaving with people (especially on Saturdays), and has Via dei Mercanti as its main axis; the roads around, such as Via Giovanni di Procida, can sometimes feel like a social club rather than a commercial centre. To the right of Via dei Mercanti, up Via Duomo, the Duomo (daily 7am-noon & 4-8pm) squeezes into the congested streets, an enormous church built in 1076 by Robert Guiscard and dedicated to St Matthew. The main features are yet another set of bronze doors from Constantinople and, in the heavily restored interior, two elegant mosaic pulpits dating from 1173, as well as the quietly expressive fifteenth-century tomb of Margaret of Anjou, wife of Charles III of Durazzo. The crypt holds the body of St Matthew himself, brought here in the tenth century. Outside, the courtyard is cool and shady, its columns plundered from Paestum, centring on a gently gurgling fountain. Outside, turn right at the bottom of the steps for the Museo Diocesano, which, although its opening times are erratic, is worth a hammer on the door to see its large altar-front, embellished with ivory panels in the late eleventh century and the largest work of its kind in the world. Failing that, turn left out of the church, left at the bottom of the steps, left again and then first right, and 100m or so further on is the Museo Provinciale which occupies two floors of a restored Romanesque palace.

Salerno hosts what claims to be the oldest fair in Europe - the Fieravecchia - on the first weekend in May, when townsfolk parade in medieval gear, food stalls are set up along the waterfront and a 2000-egg omelette is cooked down at the beach on a giant metal contraption. Incidentally, if you fancy a swim Salerno does have a scrappy bit of beach but swimming from there isn't recommended. Better to make the short bus journey to Vietri or even south to Paestum and make a day of it.

Destination Guides > Europe & Russia > Europe > Italy > Campania > Inland and southern Campania > Salerno

Vietri sul Mare

Vietri sul Mare is a fairly large and lively town, split between its old centre heaped up towards the main road, the centre of a long-standing local ceramics industry, and a rather soulless waterfront area down below with numerous lidos lining its undeniably fine grey sand beach. The town is internationally famous for the production of antique ceramics which dates back to Medieval times and is still of prime importance to its economic prosperity. Today the Ceramics of Vietri have their own protected brand name. If you have an hour or so to kill you should visit the Solimene factory. Housed in an amazing bulbous tiled building on the Salerno road - the bus goes right past - its shop is a treasure trove of brightly coloured mugs, jugs, pots and bowls. You can also wander into the workshop next door for a brief look at how it's done. The Ceramics Museum, housed in the beautiful Villa Guariglia, preserves precious pieces of antique ceramics, such as curious vaults filled with china to lighten the weight and enormous multicoloured plates in which peasants dried tomatoes. Also not to be missed is the town's most important monument, the 17th century Church of St Giovanni Battista, with its Majolica covered dome which dominates the townscape.

Maiori and Minori

Maiori lies at the head of the Tramonti valley and is the location of the longest unbroken stretch of beach on the Amalfi coastline. It was once the most important port of the Amalfi Republic, and has been a popular tourist resort since Roman times. Compared to other town along the coast, nowadays it's a much louder, brasher place, and straggles along its huge stretch of beach for a kilometre or more in a long line of beach bars and restaurants. The main church of Maiori, in what remains of the historic centre, is the Collegiate of S. Maria a Mare, built in the 12th century and largely renovated between the 18th and 19th century. It is characterized (as are many other churches on the Amalfi Coast) by its large dome covered with majolica tiles.

Minori, 2km beyond Maiori,  is a pretty village with an appealing network of narrow streets behind its short but charming tree-lined promenade and grey sandy beach . The remains of a Roman villa dating from the first century AD lie just off the main road into town from Amalfi, opposite the Hotel Settebello . They were discovered in 1932, and part of the site still lies unexcavated under the houses beyond, but you can visit the sunken peristyle, with its fish pond at one end, and the remains of a nymphaeum; and there are a couple of rooms housing an assortment of finds. The tourist office on the main square of Piazza Umberto has all the information you'll need.

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Grand Hotel Salerno   ITA
Lungomare Clemente Tafuri 1 - Salerno, Italy 84127

Location. Grand Hotel Salerno is located in Salerno, Italy, overlooking the Gulf of Salerno and the Amalfi Coast. The hotel is 200 metres from La Carnale Castle and 400 metres from Salerno train station. Salerno Cathedral, Verdi Theatre and Salernitana Museum are all within one kilometre.

Hotel Features. Grand Hotel Salerno was designed by Italian architect Nicola Pagliara, and features a characteristic prow shape. The interior offers black leather sofas and black-and-white marble floors. A helicopter pad is available on the roof, and a roof garden offers panoramic views of the coast. The hotel can organise car hire for guests to explore the region.
Brera Restaurant serves traditional Italian dishes, overlooking the sea, and is open daily for breakfast (complimentary), lunch, and dinner. Restaurant La Ninfea serves both Italian and international dishes. A lounge bar can be found in the lobby, and serves drinks and snacks, accompanied by piano music.
There are nine multifunctional meeting rooms, and a congress centre available with natural daylight and soundproofed walls. Wireless Internet access is available for a surcharge.

Expert Tip. Behind Salerno is a high rock surmounted by an ancient castle, the Castle of Arechi, which commands a view overlooking the city and the sea. The castle is four kilometres from the hotel and is a centre for exhibitions. It also holds a library.

La Carnale Castle: 200 metres
Salerno port: 200 metres
Salerno train station: 400 metres
Etrusco-Sannita archaeological area: 900 metres
Salerno Cathedral: 1 km
Verdi Theatre: 1 km
Salernitana museum: 1 km
Scuola Medica: 2.5 km
Arechi Castle: 4 km
Vietri Sul Mare (village of ceramics): 6 km
Amalfi: 25 km
Pompeii: 30 km
Paestum: 35 km
Positano: 45 km
Naples: 50 km
Sorrento (island): 58 km

From Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP):
Distance to Grand Hotel Salerno is 55 kilometres, approximately 50 minutes' drive.

Getting there. The Alibus shuttle leaves every 30 minutes for Piazza Municipio and Naples' central station (Stazione Centrale). Tickets cost 3 EUR. From here, trains run to Salerno Railway station, 400 metres from the hotel. Buonotourist and Sitabus operate buses directly to Salerno. Airport transfers can be organised by the hotel for a surcharge. Prices are all subject to change.

Getting around. Campania Bus Service (SITA) operates buses in Salerno and the surrounding region. Buses go to Sorrento, Pompeii, and Amalfi and hydrofoils are available to Sorrento. The town is compact and easily explored on foot. A car is useful for exploring more of the region.

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